El Capitan free climb

There is a lot of talk on the news about these guys who just free climbed Yosemite's El Capitan. I don't mean to belittle the accomplishment, but I thought "free climb" meant to not use ropes. However, on the news coverage you could clearly see them using ropes and they had lots of climbing gear on their belts. I also wish to add that when I was in Yosemite last summer I saw climbers going up El Capitan with a telescope the rangers set out. It was my understanding that at any given time several groups are doing it. So, my question is what did these guys do that hasn't been done before? Please don't use technical climbing terminology but stick to simple English.

All elevation on the climb was gained without the use of any aids. They did have safety ropes on so that if they lost their grip on a particularly difficult section they only fell a few feet but could not use the ropes as a climbing aid.

Quote: kenarman

All elevation on the climb was gained without the use of any aids. They did have safety ropes on so that if they lost their grip on a particularly difficult section they only fell a few feet but could not use the ropes as a climbing aid.

Thanks. I thought it had been climbed with ropes for safety purposes only thousands of times but I guess I was wrong.

I think it was about 10 nights they spent on the mountain for the climb. Obviously their tents were anchored, they also had to defecate in plastic bags. I can't believe some of the "ledges" they used for their fingers. Some of them were under 1/4" in the more technical sections.

Was it the first time it had been "free" climbed? I thought the feat was that they were going up a route (the "Dawn Wall") that had not been done that way before, but that others had climbed other routes without the aid of ropes previously.

I would think that if you are doing a free climb and slip off the wall so that the safety gear engages, you should have to start from the bottom again. Technically, you are dead, and shouldn't be allowed to just pick up where you left off. It's like running a marathon by running a mile each day for 26 days.

Which brings up the question of how the very first climber made his initial accent. Didn't he have to "free" climb it to put in the first anchors?

You are correct Aye it was the first free climb of the 'Dawn Wall'. Not sure if I agree with your marathon analogy. The first climber would have ropes and anchors that were used to aid in the climb. There is a difference between being tied off a few feet away or falling 50' if you slip.

Quote: Ayecarumba

Was it the first time it had been "free" climbed? I thought the feat was that they were going up a route (the "Dawn Wall") that had not been done that way before, but that others had climbed other routes without the aid of ropes previously.

I would think that if you are doing a free climb and slip off the wall so that the safety gear engages, you should have to start from the bottom again. Technically, you are dead, and shouldn't be allowed to just pick up where you left off. It's like running a marathon by running a mile each day for 26 days.

Which brings up the question of how the very first climber made his initial accent. Didn't he have to "free" climb it to put in the first anchors?

Don't imagine this will ever be climbed without safety gear or slips, but I assume there are such records for other places. I assume this route is designated by the entire face. (north face, south face, or maybe it has a actual name for the route)

Quote: Ayecarumba

Which brings up the question of how the very first climber made his initial accent. Didn't he have to "free" climb it to put in the first anchors?

No. You're not supposed to leave anchors in, for one thing. The theory is that the most you can fall is the distance since your last anchor. The bottom guys takes them out as he passes them but he is supported be tied to the lead climber so he won't die if he falls. There is more to it than that but the theory is that you climb in pairs, the lead climber a "pitch" higher than the other, at the most.

Quote: rxwine

Don't imagine this will ever be climbed without safety gear or slips, but I assume there are such records for other places. I assume this route is designated by the entire face. (north face, south face, or maybe it has a actual name for the route)

Check you this guy:



I'm sure he has the ability to do El Capitan without ropes, except for the sheer size of it.

Quote: Wizard

Check you this guy:

I know what that one guy was talking about -- out of nowhere type of panic. I experienced it once when swimming, crossing a lake.

The thing is, if you suddenly start to feel like you're not going to make it doing most things the other option isn't drowning or falling to your death.

It's a different kind of motivator, but not a pleasant one when it occurs. (I made it of course. It was just as far to either shore even when I turned around -- that's when I knew I had to make it or else.)