Do it yourself

April 22nd, 2015 at 5:05:35 PM permalink
rxwine
Member since: Oct 24, 2012
Threads: 188
Posts: 18632
Quote: Fleastiff
Speaking of showers...

Anybody know about these universal one control showers: Push for off, Pull for On, Twist Right for Colder, Twist Left for Hotter (Lol, hotter? with my landlord?? Hah.).

What do you do when you push and push and it won't turn off?


Before you consider it leaky, try opening it up a few times and shutting it off. Then wait awhile and check and see if it is still dripping later.
You believe in an invisible god, and dismiss people who say they are trans? Really?
April 22nd, 2015 at 9:20:11 PM permalink
Face
Member since: Oct 24, 2012
Threads: 61
Posts: 3941
Quote: petroglyph
Sounds like the fixture will have to be changed,...


Probably this, although I have little experience in this department. The only thing I can suggest other than full replacement is to check it over for loose screws / parts. Usually the handle you manipulate is a separate piece from that which actually opens and closes the water, so if it comes loose or misaligned, it will turn/push/pull but the piece that actually does the action won't. I seem to be very hard on showers, usually from not being able to move properly and banging into stuff. Every shower problem I've had has been the result of knocking something loose.
Be bold and risk defeat, or be cautious and encourage it.
April 26th, 2015 at 4:50:15 PM permalink
AZDuffman
Member since: Oct 24, 2012
Threads: 135
Posts: 18136
Need some advice on carpentry here. My mother has asked me to build a ramp for both my dad and the dog, both having a hard time getting up the front step. It will be constructed of wood. Here are the specifics:

The total drop is a touch under 9" but call is 8.
It will be 5' wide so as to leave plenty of room such that nobody will fall off and eliminate the need for a railing, which I really do not want to add fro such a small vertical drop.
I plan to make the plane an even 4' because that is about the length of the "patio" stone and since most wood comes in 8' sections it minimizes waste. This leaves a nice 2" of drop per foot, very gentle.

I plan to just get some 2x6 and cut it at the appropriate angle. Adding an inch or so for decking makes it about 7", right in line with the 9" drop, giving some clearance for the door to open without issue. Use the same kind of "hangers" you use to build a deck. Place them on 12 or 18" centers.

Wondering:

1. Would it be better to use plywood for the decking or the same kind of 1x6 (?) boards used on decks? I will use deck or drywall screws to hold it down. But not sure which to use. Is one structurally or practically better than the other? My mother might want to stain it, so if it is just appearance she can decide. I am looking for "construction" advice. She likes doing small painting jobs and making the yard look nice so she will probably end up doing the stain.

2. How thick of plywood would anyone suggest? If you saw the shelves I put in my basement expect me to do the same Irish/German-over-engineering we do here in SWPA.

3. Any advice for keeping square and level when the patio stone and house probably are not? Between neighbors and family I kind of look at this as a "manliness" test and it has to stand up to scrutiny. Yeah, I am probably over thinking and over worrying, but that is what it is. I know how to use shims for the final adjustments, what else do I need to expect? (Yes, I own both a speed-square and framing square. Just any tips/tricks?)

4. Any other advice? My worry on using the decking is where the joist gets really thin and will not accept a long screw. Secondary question is avoiding a tripping hazard where the plane meets the ground. I don't figure that is a big deal, is it?

I probably have this over-thought. But I really want to get it right.
The President is a fink.
April 26th, 2015 at 5:26:48 PM permalink
Evenbob
Member since: Oct 24, 2012
Threads: 146
Posts: 25010
Floor thickness plywood is OK and cheaper.
You have to cover it with a non slip surface
anyway, might as well be plywood. This
works well:

http://www.slipdoctors.com/products-antislip-coatings-solutions.asp
If you take a risk, you may lose. If you never take a risk, you will always lose.
April 26th, 2015 at 5:36:18 PM permalink
rxwine
Member since: Oct 24, 2012
Threads: 188
Posts: 18632
I don't know if you'd want to check it, but I think there are standards (OSHA?) for ramps.

Of course, you can go with the dimensions you or someone prefers, but I was thinking there may be some established criteria that people that need to use them have formulated. No need to re-invent the wheel. (or ramp)
You believe in an invisible god, and dismiss people who say they are trans? Really?
April 26th, 2015 at 5:44:24 PM permalink
AZDuffman
Member since: Oct 24, 2012
Threads: 135
Posts: 18136
Quote: rxwine
I don't know if you'd want to check it, but I think there are standards (OSHA?) for ramps.

Of course, you can go with the dimensions you or someone prefers, but I was thinking there may be some established criteria that people that need to use them have formulated. No need to re-invent the wheel. (or ramp)


Well I am stuck on the rise and somewhat the width. Partially of the length. Might check it out.
The President is a fink.
April 26th, 2015 at 6:20:20 PM permalink
Face
Member since: Oct 24, 2012
Threads: 61
Posts: 3941
Quote: AZDuffman
Need some advice on carpentry here. My mother has asked me to build a ramp for both my dad and the dog, both having a hard time getting up the front step. It will be constructed of wood.


I built pretty much exactly what you're describing. Mine's a ramp into my shed so I could get the mower, blower, and other too-heavy-to-hump gear into it. 4"-6" of slab concrete plus 4" height of shed floor, it's pretty much the same thing.

Quote: AZD
1. Would it be better to use plywood for the decking or the same kind of 1x6 (?) boards used on decks? I will use deck or drywall screws to hold it down. But not sure which to use. Is one structurally or practically better than the other? My mother might want to stain it, so if it is just appearance she can decide. I am looking for "construction" advice. She likes doing small painting jobs and making the yard look nice so she will probably end up doing the stain.


I hate plywood, so this advice comes with bias. I refuse to believe plywood can be made weatherproof. Even just Googling, all I saw was weather "resistant" with a "500 day no sanding guarantee". That ain't even 2 years. Plywood is just sawdust and glue, and even if you spend for the "resistant" (and you know it'll cost extra), I ain't gonna believe it's gonna handle our winters without absolute proof. Oh, I've seen plenty of exposed plywood. I've disposed of it, too. After 5 years, it's about the same consistency as wet newspaper.



Quote: AZD
2. How thick of plywood would anyone suggest? If you saw the shelves I put in my basement expect me to do the same Irish/German-over-engineering we do here in SWPA.


If you eschew reason and use plywood anyways, I'd go for an extra support as opposed to beefing up the plywood. Even a very thick piece just supported on the edges of a 5' span is gonna have some flex. I almost guarantee it won't break no matter what you do, but it will have a bouncy feel to it. Bouncy is not manly ;)

Mine is made entirely of pressure treated 2"x 6". Cut one 8 footer in twain to make the frame rails on each side, cut four others in twain to give me my deck, and that was it. Face miter cut (technical term, not my own proprietary brand of cutting =)) the frame rail so it sat flat in the yard, wood screw the planks on top, and butt it up to the shed. Easy peasy.

Quote: AZD
3. Any advice for keeping square and level when the patio stone and house probably are not?


This I'm not much help on. My shed sits on a 6"+ concrete slab, so it hasn't heaved or warped, obviously. The other end sits in the yard which, while it does heave, only requires stepping on it it sink it into the dirt back to true. What I would do (because I'm a hack) is avoid putting your frame rails on the very edge of your deck. Tuck them in so you have ~4" of overhang. That much overhang will completely hide the frame at ground level. If it's not square and level, well... only you will know =)

Quote: AZD
4. Any other advice? My worry on using the decking is where the joist gets really thin and will not accept a long screw. Secondary question is avoiding a tripping hazard where the plane meets the ground. I don't figure that is a big deal, is it?


I assume what you're calling "joist" is what I've been referring to as "frame rail". Same thing, just making sure we're on the same page.

My angle was such that I needed minimum adjustment. My decking planks have two screws per side, usually 2" up from the bottom and 2" down from the top. You know, for symmetry =) The bottom one where the joist was too thin, I just moved up an inch - 3" from the bottom and 1" from the top. If that still doesn't give you enough, I'd instead use a simple "L" shaped metal bracket. Drill it into the side of the joist and into the bottom of the deck plank. If you've given the overhang to hide your Good Enough footer, those will be hidden, too =)

If your folks are of the age that an 8" rise is enough to require a ramp, I would certainly assume that the 2" lip of the deck is gonna cause some issues. You could edge miter that leading deck plank, but I have no idea the saw that could miter at such an angle to relieve the tripping risk. I dunno what you mean by "patio stones", but if they're some sort of non-permanent paver, I'd almost move them so your ramp could rest on the lower dirt level and have the pavers leading up to the deck make up for the lip, if you know what I mean.
Be bold and risk defeat, or be cautious and encourage it.
April 27th, 2015 at 11:52:29 AM permalink
petroglyph
Member since: Aug 3, 2014
Threads: 25
Posts: 6227
Quote: AZDuffman
Need some advice on carpentry here. My mother has asked me to build a ramp for both my dad and the dog, both having a hard time getting up the front step. It will be constructed of wood.
I like treated plywood in these instances. I also agree with Bob about coating it with a non slip surface. If it wears after a few years and it is screwed on, it can be replaced in minutes. IMO

Quote:
I plan to make the plane an even 4' because that is about the length of the "patio" stone
Artistically, can you match what is there? Stand back and look at it and what will be esthetically pleasing? If the porch is "stone", can you match that? What is the home siding, color?

Quote:
1. Would it be better to use plywood for the decking or the same kind of 1x6 (?) boards used on decks?
I am assuming you are talking 2x whatever 6? Those being around 1 5/8 thick.
Quote:
I will use deck or drywall screws to hold it down.
Drywall screws are a staple around here, but not very long if you use 3/4 ply. If you use treated ply [you should] get the proper kind of fasteners, the wrong ones get a chemical reaction and rot out quickly, the right ones you can re-use when you resurface it in 5 years.

Quote:
do the same Irish/German-over-engineering we do here in SWPA.
Everything Petro builds can also be driven on. I would like to add, where the ramp adjoins the deck, the one I built for my mom, I left a lip. So the ramp at the very top is about 1/2-3/4 inch higher than the deck. She used a walker and any friends that use wheeled devices [could happen to anyone] would have a "stop" when they got to the ramp, and they would adjust or prepare to go down instead of bailing off. Even a slight slope can be a hazard to a wheeled person, just sayin.

Quote:
Any advice for keeping square and level when the patio stone and house probably are not? Between neighbors and family I kind of look at this as a "manliness" test and it has to stand up to scrutiny.
Well, if you got this hanging over your head, I suggest concrete or flagstone mortared in place. The neighbors probably don't have any experience with cement so will be intimidated about saying anything. Family will forever think you the go to guy for advice. Anyone in the area that has done it will either keep their mouth shut or help you. A few bags of pre-mix cement goes a long way, durable, slip resistant, and if cementing stones found locally will go with anything, nobody will check it with a level, [ if they do, tell them its for drainage], if you want to later on you can add quarry tile, [let mom]. Severely passes the "manly" test. It is pretty easy, mix it in a wheelbarrow, bucket, or in place, easy peazy.

Quote:
Any other advice? My worry on using the decking is where the joist gets really thin and will not accept a long screw.
If I am imagining this correctly, do they have to be adjoined or can they "float" seperately?
Quote:
Secondary question is avoiding a tripping hazard where the plane meets the ground. I don't figure that is a big deal, is it?
The less the slope, the easier it is for the walking challenged, the initial jump up onto the ramp can leave wheeled persons at the bottom waiting for help. Is this going to be under cover or subject to rain and snow? I really like a handrail, falling really sucks.
The last official act of any government is to loot the treasury. GW
April 27th, 2015 at 2:47:52 PM permalink
AZDuffman
Member since: Oct 24, 2012
Threads: 135
Posts: 18136
Petro, Face, EB, Rx:

Thanks so far. Too much to reply line by line so a reply and any new info feel free.

First, concrete, stone, or anything you mix is not going to happen. The size is too small to order a truck, too big to hand mix, not practical, and I do not have enough confidence in my masonry work. It is going to be wood. When I say "deck board" I mean this stuff:



Nobody is in a wheelchair or walker so a small "step" will not jam or trip anything. There are 2 such "steps" of marginal drop inside the house and 2 more basement to garage. So it need not be perfectly level. In fact I prefer it not as the front stoop and house are sinking at different rates as 60+ year old houses will do.

As to "matching" or anything else, it is a red brick house and basic concrete walk with no fancy-shamsy stones or whatever. My plan is use wood and either EB paint idea or anti-slip sandpaper. Either way that is the easy part.

FACE: yes, "joist" means "frame rail" but what is "twain cut?"

Has anyone worked with those Trex(R) deck boards that look like above but are some kind of recycled plastic? They are pricey for a deck but thus will be just 20 sq ft.

I will hopefully post some pix of the construction as I just like the idea of this thread.
The President is a fink.
April 27th, 2015 at 2:58:39 PM permalink
Evenbob
Member since: Oct 24, 2012
Threads: 146
Posts: 25010
20 sq ft is nothing, use the treated
wood they use for decks. And don't
put the sandpaper stuff down, it's
crap. Buy a gallon of the liquid and
you'll have enough to recoat it for
years. Will there be a handrail?
If you take a risk, you may lose. If you never take a risk, you will always lose.