Spanish Word of the Day

February 26th, 2016 at 1:26:51 PM permalink
Pacomartin
Member since: Oct 24, 2012
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Quote: Wizard
I would like to give a great plug for the Angus Butcher Shop. The idea is simple -- a steak house, that has a bit of a whorehouse style of interior decoration, with lovely waitresses wearing corsets.


Another patron posted this photo. I actually went in there for a drink when I was in MC.


You were about two blocks away from the lovely Tezka restaurant on Amberes Street (also home of about a dozen gay bars).



Iztaccihuatl is actually harder to climb than the taller Pico de Orizaba . I figured you would do that one first.
February 26th, 2016 at 2:53:22 PM permalink
Wizard
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Quote: Pacomartin
You were about two blocks away from the lovely Tezka restaurant on Amberes Street (also home of about a dozen gay bars).


I figured they must have been several around there someplace. I preferred Ruta Metro Insurgentes, which is a pedestrian street, ending at the King's Casino (more on that later).

Quote:
Iztaccihuatl is actually harder to climb than the taller Pico de Orizaba . I figured you would do that one first.


I heard that mentioned. I think they had us do Izy first because of the lower altitude.

Question for the advanced readers: Why is it the Zona Rosa but also the Casa Rosada. Are rosa y rosada simply too interchangeable words for pink?
Knowledge is Good -- Emil Faber
February 26th, 2016 at 7:21:14 PM permalink
Pacomartin
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Quote: Wizard
Question for the advanced readers: Why is it the Zona Rosa but also the Casa Rosada. Are rosa y rosada simply too interchangeable words for pink?

I don't know if one means "pink" and one means "rose colored". But you can say Casa Rosa as well.


Quote: Wizard
I preferred Ruta Metro Insurgentes, which is a pedestrian street, ending at the King's Casino (more on that later).

We'll wait for your trip report. But I spent several days on Calle Liverpool about a block from King's Casino. I was skeptical about Zona Rosa, as I thought that it would be too touristy, and I regretted that I couldn't afford to stay in Polanco. But, I was very pleased with the area, as I found it very comfortable and I felt safe.

Quote: Wizard
I heard that mentioned. I think they had us do Izy first because of the lower altitude.


Well, once again we will wait for full trip report. I got the impression that some companies have access to two different acclimation huts at different altitudes at Iz, while they just had the higher altitude at Pico. Probably means more than summit peak.
February 26th, 2016 at 8:14:35 PM permalink
Wizard
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Quote: Pacomartin
I don't know if one means "pink" and one means "rose colored". But you can say Casa Rosa as well.


I was referring to the Casa Rosada of Argentina.

Quote:
We'll wait for your trip report. But I spent several days on Calle Liverpool about a block from King's Casino. I was skeptical about Zona Rosa, as I thought that it would be too touristy, and I regretted that I couldn't afford to stay in Polanco. But, I was very pleased with the area, as I found it very comfortable and I felt safe.


I felt that way too. My hotel, where I spent four nights, the Maria Christina, was just across Avendia Reforma from the Pink Zone.

Quote:
Well, once again we will wait for full trip report. I got the impression that some companies have access to two different acclimation huts at different altitudes at Iz, while they just had the higher altitude at Pico. Probably means more than summit peak.


I was going to show this tomorrow, but here is my video of the climb:



Funny you talk about huts. We spent two nights in kind of like a hostel near the base of the mountain. According to the web site we were supposed to spend only one and then spend the second night in the hut seen in the video. However, the guide, for unexplained reasons, said we would do the whole thing in one day. The other guest was very upset about it, as she was a slower climber than me and didn't achieve the summit due in large part due to this change in plans. She had strong words about it with the guide service owner when we got back to Mexico City. I also would have preferred to break up the climb and spend a night at the high elevation hut.

The guide company owner said the reason they stopped staying at the hut was that it had a problem with mice and sometimes there was not enough space, especially in February, which is a busy month for Izy. I know one night isn't a big sample, but we spent about three hours resting in the hut where I saw no mice and only three other climbers, when about 20 could have fit nicely.
Knowledge is Good -- Emil Faber
February 27th, 2016 at 2:05:20 AM permalink
Pacomartin
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Very fun video. Although the wind obscures your words it helps convey the effort. So does your panting for oxygen.

The nearest small town is called San Oedro Nexapa population < 5000.



There is a park entrance called Paso de Cortez at on google maps (19.086317, -98.646859) @12,000' about 18 km from the town which seems to be the main intersection of the roads to the volcanoes, to Mexico city urban area, and towards Puebla.

Just north of that is a parking lot called La Joyita (19.133229, -98.652068) @13,024' so I assume that is where you began your hike. There are only 9 states with elevation above 13,000' so even at the parking lot most of us would have difficulty breathing.

"small port"
1st Portillo : 13,904'
2nd Portillo :14,461'
3rd Portillo : 14,852' (higher than Mount Whitney 14,505')
You must have done this in the dark.

Then comes a mountain shelter. The shelter is named after the environmental group, Grupo de los Cien, A.C. Espinillas, built 1996 ( over 15,000')



Google maps list the walk from the parking lot to the shelter as 3.5 km via Paso del Jabonero. So given the elevation change of 2656' =809 meters that is about an average grade of 23% at extremely high altitude.
February 27th, 2016 at 6:55:13 AM permalink
Wizard
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I hope to put together a written report of the climb today with pictures. However, going off memory, I think the parking lot was indeed called La Joyita and there was a Jabonero pass there somewhere. As far as I could tell, there is pretty much just one main route, which we took.

Living in Las Vegas, then spending two nights in Mexico City, I'm sure was a good foundation to deal with the altitude. However, when we got out of the car at the base "hut" I really felt the altitude. There is nothing like time to get used to it. If I may toot my own horn, I'm in very good cardiovascular shape, which I'm also sure helps. It is definitely more tiring climbing at altitude but I never had any feeling of severe altitude sickness.

Not to diminish it, but the distance from Everest base camp to the summit is only 12.5 miles and it isn't very technical.
Knowledge is Good -- Emil Faber
February 27th, 2016 at 10:55:07 AM permalink
Pacomartin
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From Google Maps it looks like Jabonero is the entire trail from the parking lot to the summit. Jabón is soap, so it is a "soap colored pass".

Quote: Wizard
Living in Las Vegas, then spending two nights in Mexico City, I'm sure was a good foundation to deal with the altitude. However, when we got out of the car at the base "hut" I really felt the altitude. There is nothing like time to get used to it. If I may toot my own horn, I'm in very good cardiovascular shape, which I'm also sure helps. It is definitely more tiring climbing at altitude but I never had any feeling of severe altitude sickness.


You are allowed to "toot your own horn" as you are incredibly accomplished. But my friend the ex-seal who regularly did 50 mile races said he always had problems at altitude, and to some extent you can't condition your way out of problems at lower altitudes. It also varies a lot from person to person. The effects on the human body are exponentially related to elevation.

Mountain medicine recognizes a change from "High altitude" to "Very high altitude" at 11,500' . Most people know the Interstate system doesn't go above 11,000' . There is no base lodge at any ski resort in the USA higher than 11,000'. There are no towns of any size in the USA above 11,000' . Mexico has one town of 500 people that live at 11,900'. So for most people they only spend very limited amounts of time above 11,500' at western ski resorts.

I assumed you got sick from altitude, and that's why you had to return early. This guy describes getting sick at the mountain shelter despite spending two days at altitude. They went back down to about 8000' before deciding to try again. I wonder if his experience is the real reason why your guides didn't want to spend the night at the shelter.

Quote: The Deceptive Iztaccihuatl

Friday, November 23, 2012
http://surfearvida.blogspot.com/

Last Friday I left Guadalajara at 4pm after spending four days with 90 sixth graders at a camp outside of Guanajuato. I was tired, but I knew that one of the other two teacher/climbers would be able to drive the 7 hours to Mexico City. Scott and Swiggum were excited to have their second chance at a big mountain after last year on the Pico de Orizaba.

In D.F. (Distrito Federal a.k.a. Mexico City) we stayed in La Condessa, one of the hip neighborhoods. We enjoyed our last hours of civilization before driving from 7,500ft in D.F. up to 12,200ft. 12,200 ft is the elevation of the Paso de Cortes. In 1519 Hernan Cortes and his conquistadors crossed here between the volcanoes of Iztaccihuatl and Popocatepetl to get their first look at the lake of Tenochtitlan, the capital of the Aztec empire and soon to be capital of New Spain.

Without anywhere to stay the nice people at the visitor center let us camp out for the next two nights on their floor for 2 dollars a night. We spent the next day acclimitizing to 12,000 ft and above by hiking around the foot hills of Iztaccihuatl, the Nahuatl word for 'white woman'. Iztaccihuatl looks like a sleeping woman from the west or east. In fact, the names of the climbing routes and features refer to the anatomy of the sleeping woman.

On Monday morning we set out from La Joya (12,800ft) to the Refugio (a shelter built about 30 years ago by the Grupo de los Cien climbing club of D.F.). We carried all our food, water, sleeping supplies up to 15,500ft to stay the night with the plan of summitting the following day. As the night fell at the Refugio we ate tuna sandwiches for dinner and set up our sleeping bags in the silver lunch box shelter.

As soon as I laid down for sleep I began feeling signs of AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness). My head started pounding, my body was gripped with extreme nausea and spinning, and overall weakness. I knew that if we went down it meant the summit would be out of the picture for me and Scott and Swiggum. I also knew I couldn't risk going up any further. I laid there for another 2 hours and the symptoms continued to worsen. This was only the second time I had experienced AMS, the first time was on Mt. Hood 3 years ago.

At 9pm the decision was made to go down. We picked our way back down from the Refugio back down to La Joya using the light from our headlamps. Back down at 12,800ft I immediately began to feel better. We slept for 5 hours in the car and then descended down to the town of Amecameca at the base of the volcanoes.
February 27th, 2016 at 11:28:31 AM permalink
Wizard
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Yes, I fully grant that different people have different tolerances for altitude and it varies within the same person from time to time too. I have two failed attempts on Mount Whitney due to altitude sickness. I'm not sure if it was being older, chance, or just being in better shape for my last two attempts of Mount Whitney were easy successes.

Along the way up Izy I saw plenty of people visibly struggling with the altitude. I think most of them quit shortly after the refugio hut or before. There is a tough steep section that, which I'm sure gets a lot of people. For a lot of people I think it is enough to just get to the knees of Izy to call it a success.

Quote: paco
Jabón is soap, so it is a "soap colored pass".


Wouldn't jabonero mean soap maker? Thus, soap maker pass? The mountain is quite red in color and most soap I've seen is white or creamy colored.
Knowledge is Good -- Emil Faber
February 27th, 2016 at 7:25:23 PM permalink
Pacomartin
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Quote: Wizard
Wouldn't jabonero mean soap maker? Thus, soap maker pass? The mountain is quite red in color and most soap I've seen is white or creamy colored.


I thought the pass was partly snow covered. You are correct in general, but Oxford Dictionary says in Mexico it means whitish (or soap colored). RAE gives both definitions without specifically referring to a region.

OXFORD ENGLISH DICTIONARY
jabonero SP. LAT. AM. SP. feminine: jabonera
1 (industria) soap delante del nombre
IN OTHER DICTIONARIES
2 (Mexico) (vaca/toro) off-white, whitish

Diccionario de La Real Academia Española,
jabonero, ra
1. adj. Perteneciente o relativo al jabón.
2. adj. Dicho de un toro: De color blanco sucio que tira a amarillento.
3. m. y f. Persona que fabrica o vende jabón.
4. f. Recipiente para depositar o guardar el jabón de tocador.
5. f. Planta herbácea de la familia de las cariofiláceas, con tallos erguidos de 40 a 60 cm, hojas lanceoladas, con pecíolo corto y tres nervios muy prominentes, flores grandes, olorosas, de color blanco rosado, en panojas, y fruto capsular con diversas semillas. El zumo de esta planta y su raíz hacen espuma con el agua y sirven, como el jabón, para lavar la ropa. Es muy común en los terrenos húmedos.
6. f. Planta de la familia de las cariofiláceas, con tallos nudosos de 60 a 80 cm de altura, hojas largas, muy estrechas y carnosas, flores blancas, pequeñas y en corimbos muy apretados, fruto seco y capsular, y que es frecuente en los sembrados.
February 27th, 2016 at 7:35:42 PM permalink
Pacomartin
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Quote: Wizard
Yes, I fully grant that different people have different tolerances for altitude and it varies within the same person from time to time too. I have two failed attempts on Mount Whitney due to altitude sickness. I'm not sure if it was being older, chance, or just being in better shape for my last two attempts of Mount Whitney were easy successes.
Along the way up Izy I saw plenty of people visibly struggling with the altitude. I think most of them quit shortly after the refugio hut or before. There is a tough steep section that, which I'm sure gets a lot of people. For a lot of people I think it is enough to just get to the knees of Izy to call it a success.


In retrospect are you glad you didn't spend the night in the hut? Would you have been more upset if your hiking companion got sick in the hut?

I take it from your comments your later sickness had nothing to do with altitude. My friend got very sick from just eating fish in Mexico City. She needed a doctor come into the hotel room and give her two IVs.